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Introduction |
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Ancient
temples, empty beaches, mighty rivers, remote forests ... and (outside
Angkor) only a handful of tourists. But the word is out - Cambodia has
emerged from the decades of war and isolation that made it a byword
for atrocities, refugees, poverty and political instability. Those
magical Angkor temples are drawing gaping travellers by the busload
once more, and Cambodia is well and truly back on the South-East Asian
travel map.
The successor-state of the mighty Khmer Empire - which ruled much of
what is now Vietnam, Laos and Thailand - Cambodia boasts a rich
culture, French-era (albeit a little weathered) capital and impressive
natural scenery. The peace is young but relatively stable, and the
country is slowly attracting the tourism currently sweeping
neighbouring Vietnam. However, the proliferation of land mines and
banditry in remote areas means the picture isn't all rosy, and for now
the beaten path remains by far the one best travelled.
Warning
Despite the easing of political
tensions in Cambodia, sporadic outbreaks of violence still occur.
Visitors are advised to avoid demonstrations and political gatherings,
and to generally exercise caution. Cambodia remains one of the world's
most heavily landmined countries, with an estimated four to six
million UXOs dotted around the countryside waiting to be detonated.
The most heavily mined part of the country is the Battambang, Banteay
Meanchey, Pursat, Siem Reap and Kampong Thom provinces, but landmines
are a problem nationwide. It's advisable to travel with a local guide
in rural areas, and never venture off the path into forest or dry
paddy fields - even when you're at Angkor. Avoid solo travel during
the day outside provincial towns, and in all parts of the country at
night. Street crime remains a problem in the capital - take particular
care at night, and travel by taxi, rather than moto or cyclo. The
potential for general banditry and lawlessness is high in the areas
between Kratie, Snuol and Stung Treng, due in part to the illegal
logging that goes on in the region. |
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Language |
National
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Khmer
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Foreign |
English & French
In general, the older generation are more likely to speak
French, the younger prefer to learn English. Cambodians like to
practice, it is very easy to make friends here. |
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Currency |
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Local Currency :
Riel (R)
NOTES : 100,
200,500,1,000,2,000,5,000, 10,000
US$/Riel Rate : $1=3910riel, April,
2001 |
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Visa and Custom |
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Visa :
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Can be obtained at Royal Embassies and Consulates of
Cambodia
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Visas are available on arrival at international
airports and Thai border check points.
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Visa fee : Business visa : USD25, Tourist Visa: USD20
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Airport Tax : International Airport tax: USD20 (Siem
Reap: UDS15) Domestic Airport tax: USD5
International Gate Way
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Pochentong International Airport, Phnom Penh
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Siem
Reap International Airport
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Sihanouk Ville Port (Visa on Arrival Upon Request)
International Border Check Point
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Bavet (Svay
Rieng Province)
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Kaam
Samnor-Koh Rokar (Kandal-Prey Veng)
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Cham
Yeam (Koh Kong Province)
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Poi Pet
(Banteay Meanchhey Province)
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O'Smach
(Oddar Meanchhey Province)
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Phnom
Den (Takeo Province): No Visa on Arrival
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Dong
Krolor (Stung Treng Province): No Visa on Arrival
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Season |
Cool(Best) :
Nov-Feb 17-27C
Hot season :
Mar-May 29-38C
Rainy : Jun-Oct
27-35C
Tourist Peak :
Dec-Jan
The relative stability which Cambodia is now enjoying is having a
significant impact on the tourism industry. The Angkor temples are
unsurprisingly beginning to draw the considerable numbers of tourists
previously discouraged by the security situation. Hotels, restaurants
& travel companies are appearing at an alarming rate in Siem Reap.
With an apparently stable government & the collapse of the Khmer Rouge
due to large-scale defections, the country is now safer than at
perhaps any time in the past 30 years.
Whereas before safety issues dictated that typically only Phnom Penh,
Siem Reap & Sihanoukville were accessible, it is now possible to
explore the country quite extensively & see other sides of Cambodia
such as the hill tribes of Ratanakiri, primary forests in Mondulkiri &
the deserted hill station at Bokor. |
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Mail / Telephone |
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POST OFFICE
Post Office GPO :
on Preah Ang Eng No13 (between Wat Phnom & river)
Hours : Daily 7.00 - 11.00, 14.00 - 17.30
Poste Restante service, charge 500 riel per letter.
Address : c/o Poste Restante, GPO Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Telephone cards can be bought here & at many shops.
Denominations are 3$, 10$, 20$,50$, 100$.
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Mail |
Japan |
Europe/AU/NZ |
USA |
Asia |
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Post Card * |
1,700 |
1,800 |
2,100 |
1,700 |
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Letter(10g) |
2,200 |
2,300 |
2,500 |
2,000 |
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Small Parcel
1kg |
47,100 |
58,400 |
81,000 |
28,300 |
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Post Rest ante
Receipt 300R
Direct phone service, phone cards, stamps. There is also an EMS
(express mail office), hours not known.
TELEPHONE General opening
hours : M-F 6:30-21:00 |
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Rates |
SEA |
Europe |
USA |
Asia |
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1min |
$1.6 |
$1.8 |
$1.8 |
$1.5 |
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Fax 1min |
$6 |
$5 |
$5 |
$4 |
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After 1 minute
charged per 15 seconds. 20% discount on these prices at
weekends.
From Siem Reap card phones: all international calls cost
$5/min.
Local Call
10cents/min
Card Phone
$2,
$5, $10, $20 |
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Safety |
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Visitors to Phnom Penh should be aware that armed theft of tourists
can occur & is more likely late at night. These are infrequent,
isolated incidents & shouldn`t necessarily deter you from sampling
Phnom Penh's extensive nightlife. Simply take just as much money as
you need with you. Resident Ex-pats advise carrying a token 10-20$ &
to hide any other money / valuables. Once it gets late & quieter,
always use motos to get around the city, preferably with a driver you
know. You'll also feel more comfortable if you go out with a group of
people from your guest-house.
Cambodia has such an unstable recent history that no-one is ever quite
sure what's around the corner. It is advisable to keep yourself
well-informed about current affairs within the country.There are some
excellent cheap English & French publications which allow you to do
this : English: Cambodia Daily 1200 riel, Phnom Penh Post 3500
riel,fortnightly Bayon Pearnik - free monthly, French : Cambodge Soir,
1500 riel - daily.
The other major information sources are from guest-houses & people,
both long-term resident ex-pats & travellers themselves. In Phnom
Penh, Capitol GH is a renowned place for info, but now any friendly
guest-house area is good for finding out what you need to know.
With regard landmines - There are still many thousands of land-mines &
unexploded ordnance in more remote areas of Cambodia. The chances of
approaching these areas unknown to you is very small. In rural areas,
always seek local advice & don't stray from that path. |
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Basic Travel Costs |
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Most tourist
places accept riel & US$. Change given in riel and US$. |
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Basic min.
price (R=Riel) |
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Room
s$3 d$5 |
(Restaurant)
local 4000+ |
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(Local
Stall) 2-4,000 |
(Restaurant) int'l $3+ |
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Coffee
1500R |
Coffee
(Milk) 1,500-2000 |
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Drinking
Water (1-L) 500+ |
Coke
(Bottle) 1,000 |
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Beer
3,000-4,000 |
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Breakfast
(Ame) 3,-4000 |
Breakfast
(Local) 2-3,000 |
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Toilet Paper
1,000 |
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T-shirt $1-3 |
post card
500-2000 |
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National Transport |
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AIR
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International Pochentong Airport 8 km west from city. shuttle bus
US$2/p taxi (Official) US$7 or from outside: US$3-5/car. Airport Tax
International: US$20, Domestic: Phnom Penh US$10,Regional Airports
US$4.
International
Destinations :
(Single &
Return ticket price, US$) :
Bangkok OW$125,RT $215, Singapore $230/$360, Ho Chi Minh OW$65/RT$120,
Vientiane OW$130, RT $250, Guangzhou $230/$390, Kuala Lumpur
$190/$300, Hong Kong $230/$420, Several flights daily to/from Bangkok.
Approx 2 flights daily from Ho Chi Minh. Approx 1 flight daily to/from
Singapore, Kuala Lumpur. 2 flights/week to/from Hong Kong, Guangzhou,
Vientiane.
Domestic
Destinations :
Siem Reap $55/$105 - several flights daily
Battambang $45/$85 - 1 flight / day
Stung Treng $45/$85 - 5 flights/ week
Ratanakiri $55/$100 - 5 flights /week
Mondulkiri $50/$100 - 2 flights/week
Koh Kong $50/$100 - 2 flights/week
Prices vary between carriers & flight schedules alter frequently,
please use above info as a general guide only.
Train : Until
recently Train travel in Cambodia had a reputation for being very
dangerous. Now it's a bit of an unknown quantity. From Phnom Penh
lines run north-west to Battambang/ Sisophon & south as far as Kampot.
Reportedly, the trains are very slow & get extremely over-crowded.
Arrive early to fight for a seat.
Phnom Penh to Battambang (4500 riel dep 06-00 arr 21-00).
Reverse journey leaves Battambang 06-30
Phnom Penh to Kampot (not known).
Battambang to Sisophon (dep 06-30, arr 11-00, 700 riel)
Bus : Bus
companies Ho-Wah Genting & GST operate routes to Sihanoukville & Takeo
in comfortable A/C buses. They are expanding operations to further
destinations (Kompong Chnang, Udong) and this will continue as road
improvement projects are undertaken. Guesthouses can book for you.
Pickup : From
Phnom Penh's Central Market, minibuses & trucks offer cheap transport
all over Cambodia. The trucks will leave only when packed & the roads
are often in terrible condition. What with the burning sun ,
dust-strewn air & crazed driver's, it's easy to imagine you are
disputing the lead in the Paris-Dakar rally ..and that's just the dry
season!!! Guest-houses can arrange trucks to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh,
Thai border, commission charged.
Shared taxi :
A good option if there's a few of you. Check around Central Market in
Phnom Penh and bargain hard.
Boat:
Express Boat :
From Phnom Penh, express boats operate up the Tonle Sap to Siem Reap
For the best deal bargain with the operators themselves. Agents &
guest-houses will offer limited discount, guest-houses offer free
transport to & from the boats at each end. Express boats also travel
up the Mekong to Kompong Cham, Kratie & Stung Treng.
Slow boat :
(May/June- Feb/Mar). For the more adventurous & well-prepared with
plenty of time. Large cargo boats ply the Tonle Sap (Siem Reap) &
Mekong (Kratie/Stung Treng) from Phnom Penh during the rainy season
until the waters are too low. Take a hammock & food/drink. Crew may
supply basic fish / meat & rice. To arrange, it's best to visit the
docks 1 or 2 days before you wish to depart & ask around. Useful if
your moto driver can act as interpreter. You will need to bargain
hard. Trip to Siem Reap : (May/June - Jan/Feb)Cost is approx.
$6-8. The journey takes about 2 days depending on water level.. See
real life on the Tonle Sap as you drift by. Mekong : (May/June
- Feb/Mar), From Phnom Penh to Kratie,$5 to Stung Treng $15 . The best
stretch of the Mekong is north of Kratie. Watch out for Irrawaddy
river dolphins. |
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Local Transport |
In Phnom Penh & Siem
Reap, moto taxis are the main option.
Bus : Newly
erected bus shelters have been spotted in Phnom Penh!! As yet no
information on services.
Taxi : Phnom
Penh Un-metered easily found around Central Market. One company (
Vantha Travel) does operate a couple of metered taxis. 24 hour
service.
Car Hire : Car
hire US$20+/day incl. Driver. Bargain
Cyclo : Cycle
rickshaw. Phnom Penh. The most stylish way to see Phnom Penh. Single
journey 1500 riel, must bargain !! usually $1/hour
Moto-Motorbike Taxi :
Motos are everywhere.
Typically 1000
riel per
journey. Bargain. One word of caution about moto drivers. The moto
drivers at the GH's have good English. 95% of moto drivers in Phnom
Penh have no English beyond .."you need moto?". It helps to know your
way back from town to your GH or navigate by landmarks obvious to
locals (Psah Central, Wat Phnom). On the upside, these guys are
usually cheaper!!!
In Siem Reap
$5-6/day
Mo-ped :
$3/day,
Dirt bike
US$6/day ask
at hotels, guest houses and agents. May need to show your passport.
Bicycle :
Phnom Penh
$1+/day in
very bad condition. The roads are also poor and the traffic is
horrendous except on Sundays.
Resembles a very fast, high quality graphics game of frogger but you
only get one life & no extra man after 10,000 points good luck.
No bicycle rental in Siem Reap which is a shame because it would be
the best way to get about town. |
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Customs |
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These
customs are common throughout South East Asia.
Toilet : Squat toilets are usual.
Toilet paper is rare - cleaning by left hand is the custom. Flush with
hand bucket. Most Guesthouses have western style toilets, some even
have toilet paper.
Bathing : take water from a water
pool with a bucket and pour over your head. Most guesthouses have
showers.
Left hand : Do not touch others with
your left hand as it is considered dirty - see above for explanation.
Touching the head of others : It is
quite insulting to Cambodians. Never ever touch with your left hand.
Tipping : Not customary.
Clothing : Casual dress is generally
acceptable . However religious sites require that arms and legs be
covered.
Footware (indoor) : Locals don't wear
shoes inside houses or temples. Remove your shoes before entry.
Bargaining : Common practice in
markets, street stalls, taxis, cyclos. |
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Bank / Exchange |
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Cash :
US$ are accepted everywhere. Change
will be given in both $ and Riel. Most foreign currencies can be
changed at banks & money changers. Embassies in Phnom Penh will only
accept US$ for visa payment. It is strongly recommended you bring US$
cash/TC as exchange rates for other currencies are very low. Best to
obtain US$ cash from the bank & change to riel from local money
changers for the best rate. Many guest-houses, restaurants & bars
throughout Cambodia charge in dollars so the best policy is to carry a
mixture of dollars & riel. Thai baht is an acceptable alternative in
Ko Kong, Battambang, Sisophon, Poipet). Banks operate nationwide
policy in terms of commission rates, exchange rates etc & all but the
most isolated provincial towns will have one or more banks offering
travellers cheque exchange. Phnom Penh offers slightly higher
dollar/riel exchange rates than in the provinces.
T/C : Encashment only
at banks and major hotels. Best rate for US dollars.
T/C commission: 1-2%
Encash at Banks for US$ then change to riel at private money changers.
Credit Card : Only at
expensive hotels & restaurants. Travel agents may require a surcharge.
Cash advance possible at some banks. Fee charged up to 4%, usually
with a minimum charge of $10.
ATM'S : None
Bank : General
Opening hours M-F 7:30-11:30
14:00-17:00 a few banks open on Saturday mornings.
Rate at Airport : $1/check $1 = 3850R
Airport Bank :
Pochentong Airport, Phnom Penh
Foreign Trade Bank Of Cambodia: Daily 8-30am - 6-00 pm
Good exchange rate of $1=3920riel,
B=87r
Credit card cash advance This service
will be available for Visa card only by summer (July /Aug). Charge
will be 4%, min amount issued 200US$
Black/Alternative Market :
Many private moneychangers in main towns, usually in market areas. |
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Immigration / Visa Border
Crossing |
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Vietnam : |
Moc Bai
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Thailand : |
1)
Aranyaprathet(th) - Poipet(cam),
2)
Hat
Lek(Th)-Koh Kong(Ca) then Sihanoukeville
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Laos : |
No
official land entry point at this time. |
Vietnam Visa
: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE MOC BAI SPECIFIED AS YOUR ENTRY POINT ON YOUR
VIETNAM VISA,
NOT NOI BAI
(HANOI AIRPORT) OR TAN SON NHAT (HO CHI MINH AIRPORT). OTHERWISE YOU
WILL BE REFUSED ENTRY & HAVE TO RETURN TO PHNOM PENH
Vietnam border
crossing : via Moc Bai
Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam) Saigon to P.Penh
by Bus (245
km) non A/C$5, A/C$12. 7-9 hours incl 3h waiting at border. See
transport P.Penh for more details.
Warning
this service may be
cancelled as the bus is often under repair.
by Taxi
$20 $5/person, then walk to cross the border : then another taxi $20
$5/person, to P.Penh. journey takes 5-6 hours.
P.Penh to
Saigon/Ho Chi Minh
by Taxi
$20-23/taxi to the border,
Cheap option if you can find 4 people to share. Taxi will come to your
GH. Put a note up at your GH.
Capital GH arranges - $6/person Many Vietnamese taxis are lying in
wait at the border, $20 or $5/person to Ho Chi Minh (bargain hard
you're in Vietnam now!!)
Journey from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh takes 4-5hrs.
Taxi Stand: 2 block S from the Central Market Must bargain.
by Bus
V.Oknhe Tep Phon,
182st+211St, behind Shell Station & large car repair garage. Buy
ticket up to 1 hour before taking bus.
Bus on M/W/F 4:30, non a/c $5, Tu/Th Sa 4:30 a/c $12. Arrival time in
Ho Chi Minh - 15:00 (Approx). Warning the bus was being fixed at the
time of research.
Check with Guest Houses for the current situation. No one at the
station speaks English so if you want to check there go with a moto
driver who can translate for you.
Visa to
Cambodia in
Saigon : apply at Cambodian embassy in Saigon. 1mth Visa $20, 3
photos, issued same day.
Visa to Vietnam
Vietnam Embassy : Monivong Blvd / junction St 436,Mon - Fri
8-11:00, 14-16:00, T425481
Visa from the embassy costs US$50. Changing stated visa entry point or
date costs US$10 in each case.
Capitol GH can
also provide Vietnam Visa: 1-month Visa(Good from the day you specify)
Overland entry possible. Price according to processing time (working
days): $78/1day, $75/2 days, 65$/3 days, $50/4days:$42/5days |
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Others |
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Souvenirs :
Gems, silver. !Warning
Gems are often fake.
Voltage : 220
volts, 60 cycles in Phnom Penh. 100volts, 50 cycles other areas. Most
types of plugs can be used, except British.
Photography
There are some photo shops in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. OK quality.
Newspapers
Cambodia Daily, 1200R, (Some
editions have a section in Japanese) Cambodge Soir (1500 riel,
daily), are English/French newspapers which cover important events in
Cambodia & internationally.e English Language Newspapers are essential
to keep up with the political and safety situation in Cambodia :
Phnom Penh Post (3500 riel, every 2 weeks) Bayon Pearnik
- monthly (free), some visitor info (Sometimes lists events or gives
tourist info and excellent free city map mainly intended for the
Ex-Pat community, contains amusing articles. Available from Guest
Houses and some bars, restaurants, free.
Many of the articles are satirical, so take everything you read with a
generous pinch of salt. can read on the internet:
www.bayon-pearnik.com Newspapers: Bayon Pearnik -
(free, monthly) |
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Information provided by
Ministry of Tourism. Government of
Cambodia. |
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