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Museum of Coastal
Defence
Hong Kong's strategic position on the South China Sea coast has
always made it vulnerable to invasion by sea. One of the formidable
military installations built by the British in the 1880s to ward off
just such a possibility is now home to an intriguing exhibition of
military memorabilia covering 600 years from the Ming and Qing
periods. The Lei Yue Mun Fort that houses the Museum of Coastal
Defence sits perched on the heights overlooking the narrow strip of
water at Lei Yue Mun, now famous for its seafood restaurants. The
fort's formidable weaponry would have made things difficult for any
19th century invader venturing through the narrow passageway to
attack Hong Kong. The British installed several powerful cannons
around the fort itself and a Brennan Torpedo Station at sea level so
that a "tin fish" would blast any invading ship that got past the
guns. Although the guns weren't fired in anger for many years, the
fort finally saw action during the Japanese invasion when the
defenders suffered heavy casualties as they unsuccessfully defended
Hong Kong.
The 34,200 square metre Museum of Coastal Defence features a
Reception Area, Redoubt and Historical Trail that paint a vivid
picture of Britain's readiness to defend Hong Kong against any
aggressors. The Redoubt houses the museum's fascinating permanent
exhibition entitled "600 Years of Coastal Defence", which includes
exhibits and relics from the Ming Period (1368-1643) up to the
present. Several of the Museum's 11 galleries are devoted to the
first Opium War (1839-1842), the British period, the Battle of Hong
Kong, the Japanese Occupation, and The Hong Kong Garrison of the
People's Liberation Army (1997). The upper part of the Redoubt,
meanwhile, is dedicated to thematic exhibitions such as the Coastal
Defence Weapons Theatre and the Cost of War.
The military relics around the Lei Yue Mun headland have been
restored and a Historical Trail has been built, enabling visitors to
stroll around a variety of interesting relics including a British
Comet tank; an armoured personnel carrier and a 10 inch
breech-loading gun. Catch the MTR to Shau Kei Wan station, take Exit
B2 to Shau Kei Wan Main Street East. To avoid a 15-minute walk you
would be better off catching a taxi. You can also catch No 85
Citybus running between the North Point Ferry Piers and Siu Sai Wan.
There is also a free shuttle bus service between the museum and the
Heng Fa Chuen MTR station at weekends and public holidays. The
shuttle bus stop is located next to the Heng Fa Chuen bus terminus.
Opening hours for the museum are 10am to 5pm daily with last
admission at 4:30pm. Closed on Thursdays and the first two days of
the Lunar New Year.
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Chinese New Year
Flower Market
The sight of excited families trundling down the road with a
huge bundle of pink-blossomed peonies, or carrying an orange tree or
a bunch of pussy willows or some other blossoms to decorate their
home is a sure sign that its Chinese New Year in Hong Kong. Peonies
- and the bigger the bunch the better - represent abundance and
success. Any businessman worth his salt will be looking for the
biggest bunch he can find for his place of business. Orange trees
are auspicious too as their colour reminds one of gold. A fetching
vase of pussy willows literally means that 'silver (coins) will
come'.
On Chinese New Year's Eve, Hong Kong people throng to the flower
markets that spring up almost overnight all over Hong Kong Island
and Kowloon. With the Spring Festival, plants which have to be in
full bloom represent life, renewal and positive energy for the New
Year as well as a lovely way to decorate the home. Catch some of the
magic of Chinese New Year's Eve by attending flower markets in
Victoria Park, Hong Kong Island or Fa Hui Park in Mong Kok.
Transportation: To get to Victoria Park get off at the Tin Hau MTR
station and take exit A. For Fa Hui Park, alight from the MTR at
Prince Edward station exit A. You can walk 20 minutes in the
direction of Boundary Street or take a cab.
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Eastern District
Tourist Trail (Shau Kei Wan Section)
Hidden amidst the high-rise residential towers of Eastern
District is a trail that will introduce you to the hustle and bustle
of everyday life. You'll discover vestiges of Hong Kong's seafaring
past at the A Kung Ngam Shipyards and the Shau Kei Wan Wholesale
Fish Market. (The sea has always been an important part of life in
Shau Kei Wan. Its name comes from the shape of the neighbouring bay:
shau kei means "pail" and wan means "bay".) The historical trail
starts at the tram terminus and heads along Shau Kei Wan Main Street
East towards the waterfront before ending at the Hong Kong Museum of
Coastal Defence. Along the way, you will see temples dedicated to
different gods: Shing Wong, Tin Hau, Tam Kung and Yuk Wong. A
visitor's guide to the trail is available at HKTB Visitor
Information & Services Centres.
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Tam Kung Temple
Fourth Moon, Day 8
(April/May) Another patron saint of the sea, Tam Kung, brings
security and happiness to all fishermen. His birthday festival is
celebrated with considerable devotion and fanfare at the Tam Kung
Temple in Shau Kei Wan on Hong Kong Island, which dates from 1905.
Similar to the Tin Hau festivities, the seafarers celebrate in order
to secure safety and good luck during the coming year.
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Tin Hau Temple
Third
Moon, Day 23
(April/May) All those who owe their livelihood to the sea praise Tin
Hau, the Goddess of the Sea. Tin Hau's birthday is celebrated to
bring safety, security, fine weather and full nets during the coming
year. Seafarers adorn with boats with colourful ribbons praising the
goddess for past protection and praying for future luck. Boats are
loaded with symbols of devotion, with offerings to the goddess. The
festival in her honour culminates in a procession and is
characterised by floral paper offerings known as fa pau. Every year
Joss House Bay, in Sai Kung, hosts a vivid celebration, where
traditional rites are observed at the temple. In Yuen Long, in the
New Territories, a parade takes place with colourful floats and lion
dances. There is a special tour that provides a visit to the Tin Hau
Temple and other tours organised during the festival period.
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Noo Day Gun
Morning Harbour and Noon Day Gun Firing Cruise
Enjoy a leisurely harbour cruise, and see many famous landmarks that
illustrate Hong Kong's vibrancy and ambitious city planning. The
tour starts from Victoria Harbour and sweeps past some of Hong Kong
Island and Kowloon's most famous landmarks. See Hong Kong's tallest
building, the award-winning Convention & Exhibition Centre, as well
as the former British Royal Naval Base. It also takes in the Shau
Kei Wan typhoon shelter and concludes with the firing of the
legendary Noon Day Gun.
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