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Big Buddha
Few statues anywhere in the world have such a powerful pull on the
imagination as the Big Buddha gazing serenely on the Po Lin
(Precious Lotus) Monastery from its hillside site at Ngong Ping on
Lantau Island. The eyes, lips, incline of the head and even the
right hand raised to deliver a blessing to all, combine to lend
great depth of character and dignity to this extraordinary statue,
whose very glance brings calm and introspection to those who look
into those seemingly all-seeing eyes. The majestic figure of the
seated Buddha (or Tian Tan) is 26.4 metres high, was cast in China
and took 10 years to complete. Weighing 220 tonnes, it was unveiled
in 1993 amid deep religious ceremonies.
Besides attracting Buddhists from all over Asia, the magnificent
figure with its compelling presence almost instantly transformed the
remote Po Lin Monastery with its devout monks into a must on tourist
schedules. Besides studying the massive statue there is also much to
see and do at the monastery itself with its various figures of Gods
and other colourful manifestations of aspects of the Buddhist
religion. If you dare, place in your hands a bamboo cylinder
containing a mass of fortune sticks, and by shaking it carefully,
one numbered stick will finally and tantalisingly fall to the
ground. Match it with the relevant printed Fortune Paper and learn
what the Fates have in store for you. Good luck! Lantau (aka Big
Fish Mountain) is almost twice the size of Hong Kong Island and as
far back as the Northern Sung Dynasty (AD 960-1127) was famous for
producing salt, then a highly valuable commodity. Take a ferry to
Silvermine Bay (Mui Wo) from the Central Pier, and Bus No 2 to Po
Lin. Or take the MTR to Tung Chung station, and Bus No 23. Allow a
full day for the trip and, depending on your schedule, consider a
meal at Silvermine Bay or Tung Chung before undertaking the long bus
ride.
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Cheung Chau Bun
Festival
One of Hong
Kong's most unusual and colourful celebrations is the Bun Festival
staged every year on the island of Cheung Chau to mark the Eighth
day of the Fourth Moon (usually in early May). The Festival climaxes
with a spellbinding procession through the main streets featuring
the images of old and much venerated gods, yet given an ethereal
atmosphere by young children assuming seemingly impossible poses as
they virtually float by aloft slow-moving floats. Hidden inside the
children's colourful costumes depicting them as legendary characters
are steel rods to ensure that they "float" by in perfect safety.
This fascinating procession is accompanied by the bedlam of
musicians loudly beating gongs and drums to scare away evil spirits.
It is led by a spectacular image of Pei Ti, the God of Water and
Spirit of the North, to whom the island's Temple of the Jade Vacuity
is dedicated.
Spectator stands are provided at parade vantage points, with seats
available at a price. The higher up you are seated, the better the
pictorial opportunities to record this exciting occasion. Since
Cheung Chau is traditionally an island of fisherfolk, Pei Ti is its
most revered divinity because it is believed that he has the power
to bestow smooth sailing for the fishing boats and good catches for
their crews. True believers know him as "Pei Fang Chen Wu Hsuan
T'ien Shang Ti" (True Soldier and Superior Divinity of the Deep
Heaven of the North). The second of the important deities whose
images add a further splash of Oriental mysticism to the parade is
the much-revered Tin Hau (Goddess of the Seas and protector of all
fishermen and boat people).
Famed for providing warnings of impending storms and saving untold
lives from shipwreck, she is in many ways Pei Ti's competitor for
the affections of the fisherfolk. Two more Gods complete the
celestial divinities taking part in the parade: Kuan Yin (the
Goddess of Mercy with her serene and ever benevolent smile) and Hung
Hsing (the terrifying God of the South with his menacing head-dress,
cruel face, bushy black beard, and stave at the ready to punish all
enemies). Meanwhile, bamboo towers on the waterfront are festooned
with thousands of buns guaranteed to bring good fortune to those who
manage to get one. But the frenzied midnight scrambles of yesteryear
to seize the topmost, and therefore luckiest, buns are no more
following a dreadful accident some years ago. Today this closing
ceremony is more sedate - and much safer. Ferries leave for Cheung
Chau from the Central Ferry Pier, and the trip takes about 30
minutes. Ferry tickets and seats for the parade should definitely be
arranged well in advance.
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Lantau Peak
Guided
Nature Walks: Lantau Island - Trails and Temples
Hong Kong's largest island, Lantau, has been called the Island of
Prayer because of its many temples and monasteries. It also boasts
some of Hong Kong's finest scenery.
Routing: You'll start this outing with a ferry ride from Hong
Kong Island, then take a scenic bus ride along Lantau's southern
coast and up to Ngong Ping, below the summit of Lantau Peak. Here,
you'll see the Big Buddha, visit Po Lin Monastery, and stroll
through the old Tea Gardens to a vantage point with superb views of
Shek Pik reservoir and the South China Sea beyond. Then, you'll hike
a path that drops, then levels out and takes you to the road leading
towards Kwun Yam Temple. Named after the Goddess of Mercy, this
beautiful temple is set on a wooded hillside from where you can see
more temples. Enjoy a break at this temple before heading along a
quiet, level road and, if time permits, visit a Chinese landscaped
garden set in the hills.
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Cheung Po Tsai Cave
There is no
escaping Cheung Chau's seafaring heritage. As your ferry pulls into
the pier, you pass an assemblage of huge fishing vessels moored in
the typhoon shelter. The praya or main street is dotted with
restaurants selling some of the best seafood you're likely to find
in these parts. Less obvious to the visitor is a small cave at the
western tip of the island, reputed to be the hiding place of one of
the area's most famous pirates, Cheung Po Tsai. Dubbed the Prince of
Pirates, Cheung's band of brigands raided fishing boats in the Pearl
River area. One of his favourite hiding spots was a small cave on
Cheung Chau that you can still visit today. Some people believe that
Chung hid his booty in the cave; but none has ever been found.
Cheung was the son of a fisherman who was captured by Cheng Yat, a
pirate chief. The 15-year-old boy became good friends with Cheng and
his wife. So much so that when the pirate was killed in a storm, his
wife made Cheung her right-hand man and lover. Invigorated, the
young man rose to become the head of the pirates. He is believed to
have built up an army of some 20,000 men along the coast. Legend has
it that Cheung and his band of brigands stored their loot on Cheung
Chau or at least hid from the navy who were trying to capture him.
The cave where Cheung hid out is small and difficult to crawl into.
Cheung is well regarded by the fishing folk. Apparently he had a
high level of moral integrity and his gang was well disciplined.
They shared the booty they made from robbing fishing boats and they
were not allowed to inflict physical harm upon any women they
encountered.
Eventually Cheung surrendered and was later offered a position in
the government. However he couldn't escape his criminal past and
some government officials blocked his appointment. He died at the
tender age of 30. Transportation: Take the ferry from the outlying
island ferry pier in Central to Cheung Chau. Once you arrive, you
can rent a kai to (small motorised ferry) right beside the ferry
pier for HK$10 - $15 per person for a one-way trip to the cave. The
trip takes 5-10 minutes. Or you can walk from the Cheung Chau ferry
pier (head to the right) and follow the coastline for about 25
minutes. The cave is right near Sai Yuen Farms.
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Information provided by
Hong Kong Tourism Board.
