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Fung Ying Seen Koon
Dominating the skyline from its
commanding site on a hillside overlooking the New Territories town
of Fanling, the Fung Ying Seen Koon is a superb example of
excellence in Taoist temple design and building. Its massive
orange-tiled double roof, built to traditional design and supported
by stout red pillars of stone, immediately catches the eye, almost
beckoning the visitor to step to its entrance and inspect the many
examples of artistic craftsmanship to be found within its grounds.
And there is no mistaking its convenient location, only five minutes
walk from the railway station at Fanling, one of the oldest (and now
one of the biggest) former market towns in the New Territories.
The
magnificent main hall of the Koon (Temple) stands amidst numerous
pavilions and towers, all combining to present an enchanting picture
postcard scene from the China of yesteryear. Other features include
a large pavilion in the garden, where lovely flowerbeds and small
bridges add a further magical touch to the scene. The temple opens
daily from 8am to 6pm, and even provides cheap vegetarian meals
throughout the afternoon. After visiting the temple return to
Fanling and walk through the crowded streets of the old area to
experience glimpses of its former lifestyle.
Catch the KCR train from the Hung Hom terminus and enjoy a close-up
of the amazing growth of Hong Kong as you pass from the bustle of
crowded urban suburbs to what was once the remote countryside of the
New Territories. From Tai Wai, the first station beyond the urban
congestion, you will first pass through the New Town of Shatin and
later another New Town at Tai Po, both a mass of seemingly endless
high-rise residential estates. A distinctive sign of the Chinese
housewife's dedication to cleanliness is the kaleidoscope of freshly
washed clothes of all hues you will see hanging from bamboo poles
outside hundreds of thousands of domestic flats. Alight at Fanling
railway station, where at a glance you will see the location of the
temple with its distinctive orange-coloured double roof.
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The North District
Flower, Bird, Insect and Fish Show
The North
District Flower, Bird, Insect and Fish Show offers delightful
Christmas entertainment that has attracted tens of thousands of
visitors every year for more than two decades. The innovative and
colourful show is designed to encourage Hong Kong people to get
involved in planting trees, rearing fish, watching birds and
generally preserving the environment. Transportation: Take KCR to
Fanling station and walk a few minutes to the Fanling recreation
grounds.
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Lung Yeuk Tau
Heritage Trail
This is the
second Heritage Trail in the New Territories and is located in an
area known locally as the "Mountain of the Leaping Dragon". The
Trail takes walkers through 11 centuries-old villages, five of them
enclosed within stout walls for safety reasons. Most are connected
with the Tang Clan, one of the historic Five Great Clans of the New
Territories. The idea of setting up a heritage trail in this
historical area was initiated by the Antiquities Advisory Board.
With the full support of local residents, the Provisional North
District Board, various Government departments and other
institutions, it was brought to fruition after several years of
preparation by the Antiquities and Monuments Office. The Lung Yeuk
Tau Heritage Trail was opened officially to the public on 4 December
1999.
Lung Yeuk Tau is located northeast of Luen Wo Market in Fanling, New
Territories. The name Lung Yeuk Tau derives from the nearby mountain
range, which is called Lung Yeuk Ling (Mountain of the Leaping
Dragon), which, in turn, comes - quite literally - from a local
legend that says that a leaping dragon once lived in this area. The
Tangs of Lung Yeuk Tau are descendants of the eldest son of a
princess of the Southern Song Dynasty. As the clan prospered, it
branched out into the neighbouring area, establishing the
present-day "Five Wais and Six Tsuens" within a few hundred years.
The "Five Wais" (a "wai" is a walled village) include Lo Wai, Ma Wat
Wai, Wing Ning Wai, Tung Kok Wai and Kun Lung Wai. The "Six Tsuens"
("tsuen" meaning village) are Ma Wat Tsuen, Wing Ning Tsuen, Tsz
Tong Tsuen, San Uk Tsuen, Siu Hang Tsuen and Kun Lung Tsuen. Many
traditional Chinese buildings and structures, such as the Tang Chung
Ling Ancestral Hall, the Tin Hau Kung and Shek Lo, together with the
walls and entrance gates and even the residences in some of the
walled villages (such as Lo Wai), have remained unchanged for
centuries, and are excellent examples of historical and social
developments in the area over the past centuries.
Some of the major sights on the Heritage Trail include :
Entrance Gate Tower of Kun Lung Wai
Kun Lung Wai is also known as San Wai. The name "Kun Lung"
originates from the characters "Kun Lung" engraved on the lintel of
the entrance. This walled village, which dates back to 1744, is
enclosed by green-brick walls. A pair of chained-ring iron gates is
installed at the front entrance. The moat, which originally
surrounded the walled village, has been filled in. The layout of the
houses inside the village is in an orderly manner, with a communal
altar situated at the end of the main alley. The tower over the gate
was declared an historical monument in 1988 and was fully restored
in 1994.
Walls and Watchtowers of Kun Lung Wai
Four watchtowers are located at the four corners of the village's
enclosing walls for defence purposes. The walls, along with the
watchtowers, were declared historical monuments in 1993 and were
fully restored in 1995.
Entrance Gate Tower of Mat Wat Wai
Mat Wat Wai, which was built by the Tang clan during the reign of
Qianlong
(AD 1736-1795), is located northwest of Lo Wai. The village is
enclosed by walls on four sides, with the main entrance facing
north. A pair of chained-ring iron gates is installed at the main
entrance where a red sandstone lintel is engraved with two
characters "Wat Chung", denoting the flourishing growth of spring
onion. This is proof that the original name of the village was Wat
Chung Wai. All the houses in the village are in orderly rows, with a
communal altar located at the end of the main alley. Unfortunately,
some parts of the village's enclosing walls have been demolished.
The entrance gate tower was declared a monument in 1994.
Lo Wai
Lo Wai, situated west of the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall, was the
first walled village built by the Tang clan in this area.
Constructed on a small hill, it was enclosed by brick walls on all
four sides. The original village entrance faced north, but was later
relocated to face east in order to achieve better fung shui. The
narrowness of the entrance was meant to facilitate defence of the
village. Next to the entrance is a well, which used to be the
village's main water supply. The houses inside the village have been
built in an orderly arrangement and a raised platform on the north
wall functions as a watchtower. In January 1997, Lo Wai was declared
a monument. A full restoration of the village wall and entrance gate
was undertaken in 1998-99 with the generous support of the Hong Kong
Jockey Club Charities Trust.
Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall
The Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall, the main ancestral hall of the
Tang clan of Lung Yeuk Tau, is situated east of Lo Wai. The hall was
built in the early 16th century in memory of Tang Chung Ling, the
founding ancestor. It is a three-hall building with the dong chung
placed in the central hall. The real hall is divided into three
chambers. The central chamber houses the soul tablets of the clan
ancestors, including those of the Song princess and her husband,
which are elaborately carved with dragon's heads, distinguishing
them from the others. The chamber to the left is dedicated to those
ancestors who made significant contributions to the clan or those
who achieved high ranks in the Imperial court. The chamber to the
right is for the righteous members of the clan. The entire building
is exquisitely decorated with fine wood carvings, mouldings and
murals of auspicious motifs, fully reflecting the superb
craftsmanship of ancient times. The Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall
was declared a monument in November 1997. It is open from 9am to
1pm, and from 2pm to 5pm daily, except Tuesdays and public holidays.
The Heritage Trail is open to the public from 9am to 5pm on Mondays
to Saturdays, and from 1pm to 5pm on Sundays and Public Holidays. It
is closed on Tuesdays. Take the Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR) train
from Hung Hom terminus to Fanling Station; get a minibus or taxi to
Lung Yeuk Tau.
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Liu Man Shek Tong +
Hau Kui Shek Ancestral Hall + Pang Ancestral Hall
Hong Kong is
always changing, with new construction projects springing up all
over the SAR. But the North District harbours three special
buildings that are not only centuries old, but also the roles of
which hark back to the dim and distant past. Despite the city's
hi-tech veneer, most Hong Kong people still worship their ancestors.
Chinese people believe that a human being has two souls - one
created at the time of conception, another at birth. After death,
the souls have to be placated with prayers and offerings of food.
Building family ancestral halls to honour one's forebears is simply
an extension of ancestor worship, and these halls have great social
and cultural significance. Two of the finest examples in the New
Territories are near Sheung Shui, while a third is located nearby at
Fanling. These buildings are a focus of celebrations at weddings and
major festivals throughout the year. Liu Man Shek Tong, built in
1751, is the main ancestral hall for the Liu clan, many of whom
still live in the area. Its green-tiled roofs and low-rise design,
set according to the dictates of feng shui, make a sharp contrast
with the surrounding buildings. The hall's name - Man Shek - means
"10,000 shi", which was once a unit of measure for grain. Long ago
Liu Kong and his four sons were each government officials earning
2,000 shi a year.
Hau Kui Shek consists of three main rooms and is the ancestral hall
of the Hau Clan. It is believed to date from 1762. The ancestral
tablets of different generations are kept here and worshipped by
their descendants. Finally, at Fanling, the Pang ancestral hall was
built in 1573 but has been restored several times since, most
recently in 1979. As well as the ancestral tablets, the hall also
contains a Heroes' Canopy, naming those who sacrificed their lives
for the clan. Getting there: Pang Ancestral Hall (open 9am-6pm
daily) is a short taxi ride from Fanling Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR)
Station. The other two halls are close to Sheung Shui KCR Station.
Liu Man Shek Tong is open 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm Wednesdays, Thursdays,
Saturdays and Sundays. Hau Kui Shek is open daily 9am-6pm, including
public holidays.
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Information provided by
Hong Kong Tourism Board.
