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Clock Tower
The old Clock Tower near the Star Ferry concourse at Tsim Sha Tsui
is a landmark of the bygone era of the Age of Steam, when trains
arrived here with passengers who weeks before had embarked from
London on the world's longest railway journey.
Their only relief
from the clackety clack of iron wheels on the rails came shortly
after departure, with the crossing of the English Channel by
boat-train. From then on it was an experience of mind-numbing
monotony as, with occasional changes of train and rail gauge, they
headed east across Europe from Paris to Moscow.
Then came the transfer to the Trans-Siberian Railway and the vast
and seemingly endlessly steppes of Mother Russia, the brief relief
of arrival in Peiping, as the Imperial Chinese capital was then
known, and at last the final leg southward through the verdant
countryside of China to Hong Kong, and the joy of once more walking
on terra firma as they left the station and checked their fob
watches by the clocks on all four sides of the Tower. With its
distinctive design in red brick and granite, the 45-metre Tower is a
graceful reminder of those Colonial times. But over many years it
had far greater significance for tens of millions of Chinese for
whom the former terminus was the final stop on their rail journeys
from villages in their homeland to new lives either in Hong Kong or
by ship to distant destinations overseas. Now the site of the
historic railway station is occupied by the Hong Kong Cultural
Centre, its curving roof and futuristic features creating an unusual
background to its solitary neighbour.
The Clock Tower is an ideal starting place for a Heritage Walk in
Tsim Sha Tsui. The Cultural Centre is highly interesting both out-
and inside. Look for the unusual golden statue of a winged figure on
the side facing the Star Ferry, an avant-garde gift from France.
Cross Salisbury Road and head away from the harbour. You will pass
the YMCA (cheap cafeteria-style meals) and its far more opulent
neighbour, the Peninsula Hotel. In the past both of these premises
provided a welcome temporary home, and specially a glorious bath and
change of clothes, for many of the Europeans who had just arrived by
train at the nearby terminus.
Turn left at Nathan Road and
head up the beginning of the "Golden Mile" (of tourist shops), pass
over Middle Road and Peking Road to Haiphong Road, where on the
opposite side stands the traditionally Muslim-style four-storey
Kowloon Mosque and Islamic Centre. Continue past the Mosque and up
the steps into the many delights of restful Kowloon Park, a
magnificent green lung in the heart of a throbbing tourist district.
The park is criss-crossed by walks that take you past a Chinese
Garden, Roof Gardens, a bird lake, an aviary, a maze and a loggia.
Then, provided the weather's hot, you can enjoy the sight of the
clear blue waters of the superb public swimming pool complex. Not to
worry if it's winter; four heated indoor pools are in use then. Yes,
visitors are welcome, but check the opening hours.
Retrace your steps to
Nathan Road, cross to the other side and look for an imposing red
brick building rather like an elongated church. It is the former
British School in Kowloon, the oldest surviving school for Europeans
in Hong Kong, and fittingly now houses the Antiquities and Monuments
Office and the Heritage Resource Centre. Close by is another
Colonial relic that is indeed a church, St Andrew's by name, with
its single bell tower in front. Founded in 1906, it was built on
typical Gothic lines but during the Japanese Occupation (1942-45)
was converted to a Shinto shrine, and the vicarage used by the chief
of the Kempetei (Secret Police) as his residence. Farther behind the
old school and St Andrew's is the Hong Kong Observatory, a
colonnaded white Colonial building erected in 1884 and declared a
monument exactly 100 years later. Take the Star Ferry from Hong Kong
side, or any buses terminating at the Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry
concourse.
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Temple Street
Yuen Po
Street Bird Garden
This delightful garden is the favoured gathering place of Hong
Kong's songbird owners, who carry their pets around in intricately
carved cages. All manner of beautiful birds can be seen here, as
well as a host of traditional bird-keeping paraphernalia. The market
is located on Yuen Po Street in Mong Kok.
Flower Market
One of Hong Kong's most colourful street markets, the Flower Market
is a jungle of exotic blossoms, luck-bringing houseplants and sweet
scents. You'll find this botanical treat on Flower Market Road, Mong
Kok, Kowloon.
Goldfish Market
Aquariums bring luck and natural beauty to many living rooms in Hong
Kong. This specialist market is the preferred source for goldfish of
every shape and hue, as well as tanks and aquatic ornaments. Head
for Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon.
Jade Market
Collectors and jade lovers gather at this unique market, where small
stalls display everything from rare and valuable jade carvings to
small and inexpensive trinkets. They make great gifts for friends
and loved ones. If you are purchasing jade of significant value, it
is advisable to go with someone who is an expert. You'll find the
Jade Market at the junction of Kansu and Battery streets in Yau Ma
Tei, Kowloon.
Temple Street Night Market
Hong Kong's most famous open-air market opens at 2:00pm but really
comes to life at dusk, with a bustling array of stalls selling
everything from watches and leatherware to clothing and souvenirs.
Other attractions include fortune-tellers and occasionally,
Cantonese opera singers. Temple Street is in Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon.
Ladies' Market
Kowloon's most popular day-long street market is devoted to anyone
with an eye for bargain-priced clothing, toys, cosmetics and
household knick-knacks. The stalls making up this enjoyable market
can be found on Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon.
Stanley Market
The historic fishing lanes of Stanley on Hong Kong Island's
picturesque southern coast are jam-packed with vendors selling
Chinese artwork, silk collectibles, clothing and curios a plenty.
This most adored of all Hong Kong's open-air shopping options is on
Stanley Market Road.
How to get there :
1) Take bus no. 6, 6A, 6X or 260 from Central (Exchange Square)
Bus Terminus. 2) Take MTR to Causeway Bay station (Exit B) walk to
Tang Lung Street then take a maxicab no. 40. 3) Take bus No. 973 at
Tsim Sha Tsui East Bus Terminus.
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Yuen Po Street Bird
Garden
If you think
that the dog is man's best friend, then a trip to the Bird Market
along Yuen Po Street in Mong Kok should be quite an eye opener. It's
a bird lover's paradise selling exotic and not so exotic birds and
the quintessential Hong Kong travel experience. It's where bird
fanciers indulge their pets with delicacies like crickets,
grasshoppers and even honey drinks to keep tiny bird vocal chords in
fine fettle! The Bird Market, part of the Yuen Po Bird Garden
(just around the corner from the Mong Kok Flower Market) also sells
a wide variety of birds including sparrows, mynahs, big white
cockatoos, colourful parrots and various Chinese songbirds. Also for
sale are a wide variety of bird paraphernalia including delicate
water dishes and hand-made, ornate cages.
Chinese people, particularly old men, take their birds very
seriously as they are considered an elegant and refined pet. To
some, birds are a harbinger of good fortune and some punters even
take their birds to the horse races. Birds are prized as much for
their beautiful plumage as for their singing abilities. In fact the
quality of a bird's warble can increase its value dramatically.
Owners like to show off their pets and it is quite common for some
old folks to take their feathered friends with them when they go for
morning yum cha. (There are a number of cafes in town where you can
see all manner of birds in cages hanging from the rafters while
their owners drink tea and read the morning papers.) In the Yuen Po
Bird Garden you'll always see bird lovers hanging their pampered
feathered friends from a branch allowing them to soak up some sun
and engage in a bit of song. Transportation: Take the MTR to Prince
Edward Station and take the Prince Edward Road West exit. Walk east
for about 10 minutes.
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Teddy Bear Kingdom
One of the world's most popular children's toys, the teddy bear, now
has a whole themed kingdom dedicated to it, located conveniently in
Tsim Sha Tsui. Modelled on other teddy bear museums in Japan and
South Korea, Hong Kong's Teddy Bear Kingdom is a celebration of this
grand, lovable bear. Covering just over 70,000 square feet, one of
the main attractions is sure to be the Teddy Bear Museum, which
contains a fascinating collection of over 400 bears from around the
world. You'll learn about the origins of the first teddy bear and
see how it was slightly adapted by different countries.
The Teddy Bear Kingdom, designed by Kazuyuki Nakata, who was
involved in the design of many Japanese theme parks, including
Hoisten Bosch and the Ultraman Land, also includes a number of
different sections, which are sure to keep the whole family
entertained. The Teddy's Cyber Universe offers many interesting, new
and inspiring computer games and do-it-yourself (DIY) crafts. The
Teddy Bear Picnic Place provides a place to eat.The Treasure Cave
features a wide range of teddy bear souvenirs for your shopping
pleasure. The Dr. Teddy Playhouse offers numerous educational and
inspirational short lessons for both children and parents. In the
Carnival Forest there is 15,000 square feet dedicated to children
and adult amusements designed to challenge people's physical and
mental abilities. In the DIY Teddy's Cradle, children can make their
very own teddy bears. They won't want to miss the Teddy Bear Jazz
Band when it starts playing. Kids can also visit the Teddy Bear
Kingdom mascot, Hon Hon, at his Harmony Tree abode that he shares
with his family. Don't forget to make a wish!
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Information provided by
Hong Kong Tourism Board.
