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Ping Shan Heritage
Trail and Tsui Shing Lau
It is a rare
privilege to find so many ancient buildings still standing in the
Yuen Long district of the New Territories, and the best of these
aged relics have been connected by the Ping Shan Heritage Trail.
Here indeed is an instructive journey going back to the very
foundations of the rural hamlets of many hundreds of years ago, when
hard-working peasants tilled their smallholdings on the district's
large alluvial plain surrounded by hills on three sides.
The Tang Clan - one of the five great clans who established
themselves in the New Territories almost 1,000 years ago - can lay
claim to many of these simple yet elegant architectural treasures.
The Trail is about 1km long and meanders through the erstwhile
villages of Hang Mei Tsuen, Hang Tau Tsuen and Sheung Cheung Wai.
One of the first sights to greet visitors is Hong Kong's only
historic pagoda, the Tsui Shing Lau, which was built about 1486 by
Tang Ying-tung, a seventh-generation member of the Tang Clan.
Originally there were seven storeys but a severe storm some
centuries ago badly damaged the upper floors and today only the
lowest three remain. The building is hexagonal, and constructed of
green brick and granite.
The next most historic site is the Tang Ancestral Hall built in 1273
by Tang Fung-shun (fifth generation) and repaired in the early years
of the reign of the erudite Emperor K'ang Hsi (1662-1723). There are
three halls containing many historical inscriptions. The roof is
decorated with ceramic figurines. Further along the Trail are
the Kun Ting Study Hall, two temples and other historic Chinese
buildings. Take Bus No 68X from Jordan Road Ferry Pier or Bus No 68M
from the Tsuen Wan MTR Station to Yuen Long, then change to the
Light Rail Train and alight at Ping Shan Station. Or take Bus No 69M
from Kwai Fong MTR Station to Tin Shui Wai, alight at Tin Yiu Estate
and walk along Tin Fuk Road (about five minutes).
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Mai Po Nature Reserve
Bordering Deep Bay in the northwestern New Territories, Mai Po
is a wetland of international importance protected under the
international Ramsar Convention on wetland conservation, which has
been signed by 13 countries since 1975. The Mai Po Marshes, together
with the mudflats at Inner Deep Bay, have been listed as a Ramsar
wetland since September 1995 and have a total area of about 1,500
hectares. The Mai Po Nature Reserve is located in the centre of the
wetland and has achieved international significance as a stopping
and feeding place for migratory birds along the East
Asian-Australian Flyway. The birdwatching season runs from October
to May and more than 300 species of bird have been recorded in the
area, many of them rarely seen anywhere outside the region. The
migrating birds forage in the vicinity of Mai Po and Inner Deep Bay
Wetlands, rebuilding their strength on the fish, shrimps and crabs
among the mangroves.
During the winter months, the wetland is also home to some 50,000
migratory water birds, including the rare and endangered Black-faced
Spoonbill. The area also houses such other wildlife as otters,
butterflies, leopard cats and other mammals. In view of its
significance, Mai Po was declared a "Site of Special Scientific
Interest" in 1976 by the Hong Kong Government. To ensure that the
area is managed properly, the World Wide Fund for Nature Hong Kong (WWFHK)
was entrusted with the responsibility of developing and managing it
in 1984 and currently manages more than 380 hectares of the Mai Po
Marshes.
The WWFHK organises guided tours into the wetlands for the public.
The tours include a visit to the three-storey tower hide, from where
visitors have an excellent view over the reserve. Conducted in
either English or Cantonese, the tour is held every Tuesday,
Thursday and Sunday from October to April, lasting approximately
five hours. For reservations, please call 2366 5266 from 9:30am to
6pm on weekdays. The WWFHK also issues permits (HK$100) for overseas
visitors on a first-come-first-served basis. For enquiries, call
2526 4473 or fax 2526 2667. Take bus No. 76K from Yuen Long,
alighting at Mai Po. Then walk for about 10 minutes to Tam Kon Chau.
Alternatively, take red minibus No. 17 to Mai Po Village, from where
it is about a 20-minute walk to the WWFHK carpark.
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Big Bowl Feast
"Poon Choi" or "Big Bowl Feast" - a type of food served in
wooden basins rather than traditional porcelain or metal - has
become so popular that many people visit the New Territories
specifically to try this age-old delicacy. The tradition dates back
to the late Sung (or Song) Dynasty (AD1270s), when the Yuen army
invaded China and the imperial family was forced to flee south to
Hong Kong.
Villagers in the New Territories were forced to use big wooden
basins to serve the imperial entourage as they could not find
sufficient porcelain or metal containers to hold the Big Bowl Feast.
The emperor was doubtless satisfied with his meal but it certainly
couldn't compare with today's Poon Choi, which often includes pork,
beef, lamb, chicken, duck, abalone, ginseng, shark's fin, fish maw,
prawn, crab, dried mushroom, fish ball, squid, dried eel, dried
shrimp, pig skin, bean curd sticks and radish. Once cooked the
mouth-watering ingredients are layered in a basin, with ingredients
that can absorb sauces such as radish, dried eel, dried shrimp, pig
skin and bean curd on the bottom. Braised pork is placed in the
middle layer while traditional village delicacies such as chicken,
duck, fish and prawn are left till last.
Poon Choi is normally eaten layer by layer instead of "stirring
everything up", but those who cannot wait will often choose to pick
up the juicy radish at the bottom first using shared chopsticks.
Formerly a dish exclusive to walled villages and served only during
religious rituals, festivals, special occasions and wedding
banquets, Poon Choi can now be enjoyed at many restaurants in the
autumn and winter or on special occasions throughout the year.
Transportation: Phone the Hong Kong Tourism Board Visitor Hotline at
+852 2508 1234 for info on Pun Choi restaurants and feasts in the
New Territories.
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Information provided by
Hong Kong Tourism Board.
