Madras - A
Kaleidoscope of Moods
Madras is
the centre of the Hindu tradition of Bharata Natyam (classical
dancing) the art of temple sculpture also comes from this part of the
country, and gives expression to both the devoutness and the artistic
skills of the Tamil people. Madras is the home of the ancient
Dravidian civilisation, one of the oldest articulate cultures in the
world. It is a city where the landscape of the past lives easily with
more recent history. This busy, efficient metropolis is a good centre
to plan a journey over South India. Make use of the international and
domestic airport and the massive network of trains and buses. The
friendliness, sincerity and colourfulness of the people can slowly be
absorbed while taking a stroll over the sandy stretch of beach known
as the Marina, or visiting Fort St. George, built by the British East
India Company. So many of the street names reflect the city’s long
association with other cultures; China Bazar Road, Armenian Street,
Portuguese Church Street for instance. In 78 AD, the Apostle St Thomas
was martyred in the city, but the Christian faith now finds graceful
expression in the many churches, particularly the San Thome Cathedral.
View the whole panorama from the Madras lighthouse, or experience the
culture from ground level in the temples, art galleries or museums.
Head off in any direction from Madras - even east, across the Bay of
Bengal by boat or plane to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands; a
paradise archipelago, lush and forested, home of some of the most
exotic plant-life in the world. The crystal clear waters shimmer with
tropical fish, and the islands are famous for their corals and
water-sports facilities. North of Madras is the large state of Andhra
Pradesh, rich in archeological and architectural treasures. The
capital, Hyderabad, was once the seat of the fabled Nizams. The
Charminar is a national symbol, and the Salar Jung Museum a rich
repository of the Raj.
A Myriad of Temples
The devout
Dravidian people of the south live and breathe their ancient religion.
Nothing, however, can really prepare a visitor for the temples, where
images of the quiet bustle of the vast halls, the huge gopurams
completely covered by coloured sculptures of gods and goddesses, the
sight of bare feet walking across cool slabs, the heady smell of
incense and the chime of the temple bell rung by priests and the
faithful leave entrancing impressions. Rustic carts drawn by oxen with
their brightly coloured painted horns, smiling villagers harvesting
the hay at the side of the road - these will be some of the memorable
features of the short journey from Madras to the famous temple town of
Mahabalipuram. A swim off the glorious beach will refresh you after
absorbing the wonders of the romantic shore temples and of Arjuna’s
Penance, the huge rock carvings of animals and gods, There are so many
impressive temple towns in South India - nearby Kanchipuram with its
spectacular gopurams, ’ visible from miles away, or other magical
sounding places - Chidambaram, Tanjore, Tiruchirapalli, and, most of
all, the pilgrim centre of Madurai - one of the oldest cities in
Southern India - with its dramatic and lively Meenakshi temple,
dedicated to the fish-eyed goddess. Alternatively, for a different
style of relaxation, visit the attractive French-style coastal town of
Pondicherry, south of Madras. In the neighbouring state of Karnataka
lie the stone-carved temples of Belur and Halebid. Relive the exciting
era of the Hoysalas, who flourished around the 12th century, by
examining the endless stories which the sculptural detail portrays the
war, the hunt, the animals, the dancing girls and, of course the gods.
Situated on top of a hill in Sravanabelagola is the massive statue of
Lord Bahubali, dwarfing the landscape. Lose yourself in the strange
and beautiful ruins at Hampi. Visit Bangalore, the state capital, for
another, different taste of Indian urban life; the city is affluent,
bustling and vibrant and -splendidly adorned with trees, parks and
gardens. It is also the most important centre of India’s ’nonsmoke’
industries, including aerospace, machine-tools and electronics.
Further delights are waiting in the gracious sandalwood city of Mysore,
where it is possible to stay in the one-time home of an ex-Maharajah,
now the Lalitha Mahal Hotel of gleaming white beauty. Incense is
manufactured in the city, and the sweet and fragrant smells of jasmine
and rose and musk will linger in the air and in the memory.
The Warm Beauty
Kerala -
land of surf, spice and magic, an ancient crossroads of
cultures...Chinese fishing nets drawn up on the golden sand, Jewish
synagogues, Portuguese forts, Dutch and Syrian churches, and of course
beautiful Indian temples and palaces...backed by mountains, fringed
with surf, rich in spice plantations and coconut palms, relaxed and
tranquil under the warm tropical sun. Laze gloriously on the unspoiled
and beautiful coconut beaches of Kovalam, India’s finest beach resort;
or visit Cochin, with its beautiful waterfront, or Trivandrum, with
the Padmanabhaswamy Temple, the former
rulers’ place of workshop; both towns are also memorable for their
churches and museums. While in the area, move into the hinterland and
hear the trumpeting of an elephant and the chatter of monkeys running
wild in the green and watery Periyar Game Sanctuary. Inhale the pure
fresh air from the height of the Nilgiri hills while absorbing the
spectacular views in Ootacamund or Kodaikanal, perhaps followed by a
gentle trip on the backwaters between Aleppey and Quilon, watching the
villagers at work in the lush green paddy fields.
Joyous Dance of the South
A visit to
the south may well coincide with one of the many magnificent
festivals; if not, don’t worry, as there will usually be a celebration
of some sort in every lively village here. The Bharata Natyam dance
originated in the south; the rhythm of the music, the colours of the
costumes and the grace of every stylised movement will spellbind the
onlooker. Experience the beauty and elegance of the Kathakali mask
dance, which depicts tales of the gods, heroes, demons and fabulous
beasts of Indian legend, or the grace of Kalaipattu, the martial art
of Kerala. Join the happy and smiling throng of revellers as fireworks
explode into the night sky, brightly coloured flowers are scattered in
the air, gloriously bedecked elephants and cows join the procession in
the street, everyone dancing to the beat of the tabla sights and
sounds all entwined with the haunting rhythm of ancient Sanskrit
Mantras (chanting).
India awaits you
Kanya Kumari (Cape Comorin) in Tamil Nadu, India’s Lands End, washed
by three seas, where at the time of the full moon it is possible to
watch the sun set and the moon rise at the same time, a popular
pilgrimage town, the end of the railway line ... from here to Jammu
and Kashmir is over 3,300 kilometers, and the railway journey will
take three days, passing through the whole staggering diversity of
India - the great plains, towering mountains and rich forests, the
serene temple towns and lively resorts, thriving cities, tranquil hill
stations and tiny villages, the people, the history, the wildlife, the
cultures... such a wealth of beauty and mystery and laughter in this
graceful and gentle land. An experience both indescribable and
unforgettable as only India can be. She is waiting for you, and has
been for 5,000 years. All you have to do is arrive; the wonder of
India - only nine hours away.