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7,000 TIMES MORE MEMORABLE
Towards the turn of
the 20th century, the American city planner Daniel Burnham
carved on a valley in the upland Cordillera region of northern
Luzon a summer recreational center, the city of Baguio. With its
nippy climate and pleasant mountain scenery, Baguio is a favored
destination among artists, honeymooners and others looking for a
cool retreat. It is also a faith healing haven and a university
town.
Also nestled within the Central Cordillera mountain range is the
postcard-pretty town of Banaue. Banaue’s claim to fame are the
rice terraces - part of the 20,000 hectares of engineering
marvel that also span the towns of Hungduan, Mayoyao and Kiangan.
The terraces were built more than 2,000 years ago by the Ifugao
tribe, using only their bare hands and crude implements.
Inscribed in the World Heritage List, this "8th Wonder of the
World" serves as a living testament to man’s genius at turning a
rugged and forbidding terrain into a continuing source of
sustenance. Baguio and Banaue are anchor tourist destinations
and part of the 7,000 times more islands that make up the
Philippine archipelago.
BAGUIO OF LEISURELY PURSUITS
One of the
cleanest and greenest cities in the country, Baguio is made for
sightseeing. And for strolls and boat rides and gentle trots
around the park. And for golf. Kennon Road, completed in 1905,
opened Baguio to tourism. The zigzagging path previews the
scenic highlights of the city. Along the 32-kilometer highway
are the Bridal Veil and Colorado waterfalls. Synonymous with
Baguio is Burnham Park. Located in the heart of the city, the
park’s features include a man-made lagoon ideal for boat rides,
a skating rink, an athletic field and stadium, basketball and
tennis courts, a biking zone, tree-and-flower lined promenades,
and a plant market.
A popular golfing destination, the city takes pride in its
Baguio Country Club and Camp John Hay. What used to be the
rest-and-recreation base of American military personnel, the
Camp is being transformed into a world-class resort and is also
Baguio’s biggest pine tree conservation area. Its newly
refurbished 18-hole golf course rivals that of the Country Club
which has pretty garden-patched cottages surrounding its
fairways. Ornate iron gates open to the Mansion House, the
official summer residence of Philippine presidents. It offers
tourists with great photo opportunities with its rectangular
reflecting pool along a tree-lined walkway. It also houses a
museum of presidential memorabilia. Near the Mansion House is
Wright Park where neophyte riders can trot around an oval track
guided by trainers who lead horses with a hand-held leash. At
the Mines View Park, tourists can have a panoramic view of the
old mines of Benguet. At the park entrance is a flea market for
souvenir items.
Sitting on top of a hill in Upper Session Road is the twin-spire
Baguio Cathedral, a city landmark. Another pilgrimage site is
the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes which sits on top of Dominican
Hill. Devotees prefer to climb the 252-step ascent than drive
through a winding road to reach the shrine. Bell Church holds a
religious service of mixed Buddhist, Taoist, Confucian and
Christian dogmas but tourists come here to have their fortunes
told. Located on an elevated pine-forested ground is the
Philippine Military Academy, the country’s foremost military
learning institution. Its Saturday morning Parade in Review by
cadets in full regalia never fails to attract visitors. Also
within campus is a Military Museum. A cultural haven established
by noted Baguio artist BenCab, Tam-awan Village recreates a
typical ethnic village in the Cordilleras with authentic tribal
homes uprooted from their original locations and re-set on
similar terrain. There is also an art gallery-cum-coffee shop.
BANAUE OF PAINTERLY DREAMS
Because of its high altitude, Banaue is often described as
"where land merges with the clouds to meet the heavens" with the
rice terraces as "the stairway to the sky."
Banaue is a place
for nature adventures and cultural immersion. Days are for
indulging in such activities as strolling, biking, and trekking.
Evenings are for campfire chats at a village or warm indoor
cosseting at the lodges and inns.
A leading tourism destination in Asia, the Banaue rice terraces
start from the base of the Cordilleras and reach up to several
thousand feet high. Its length, if stretched from end to end,
could encircle half of the globe. The rice paddies are fed by
mountain springs and streams that are channeled into an
irrigation canal that runs downhill through the terraces. In the
village of Batad, the terraces take the shape of an amphitheater
and can be reached by a 12-kilometer ride from Banaue Hotel and
a 2-hour hike through mountain trails.
After trekking through the terraces, cool retreats indeed are
the spring-fed stream of Guihob and the magnificent Tappiya
Waterfalls which has an enormous basin for swimming. Shopping
takes a different twist in Banaue. While souvenir items are
offered by curio stores, the more exciting way to shop, however,
is to go on a village visit, watch a family demonstrate their
native craft and then haggle for a better price on their
product.
ISLAND FLAVORS
It has been
said that there is only one kind of lucrative business in
Baguio, and that is dining. This, of course, is overly
exaggerated but then who can question this wisdom with the
proliferation of food places offering all kinds of eats in this
tiny city!
Star Caf้ along Lower Session Road is noted for its excellent
breads and pies and fine Chinese cuisine while the adjoining
Dainty Restaurant has the best coffee in town and good noodles,
too. For really great old-fashioned breakfasts, check out Casa
Vallejo at the Upper Session Road. New Bonuan at the Happy Glen
Loop, Jade Restaurant along Marcos Highway and Barrio Fiesta at
the Upper Session Road are where you can partake of home-cooked
native cooking. Kalapaw Restaurant in Chuntug Street specializes
in grilled squids and tuna jaws. Inn Rocio in Kisad Road dishes
out Continental food, Mario’s Restaurant in Upper Session Road
has good steaks, great Caesar’s Salad, and decadent cakes. And
the artsy Caf้ by the Ruins in Chuntug Street serves eclectic,
seasonal dishes. At the Hotel Monticello in Kennon Road, Hakuun
Sanso Restaurant serves authentic Japanese cuisine while 50’s
Diner specializes in traditional American staples. Rose Bowl
Steak House and Restaurant in Harrison Road offers an
international fare of Chinese, American and Filipino dishes. The
local food chain Don Henrico’s has its beginnings at the Upper
Session Road and serves yummy pastas and pizzas.
While Baguio bursts at the seams with restaurants, one has a
limited choice in Banaue where most dining outlets are found in
the mountain inns and lodges. Banaue Hotel has theme restaurants
and offers catering services for picnic meals. |