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7,000 TIMES MORE
ROMANTIC
Vigan, with its centuries-old edifices, is a breathing reminder
of what was once a royal city. One of the earliest Spanish
settlements in the country, Vigan was founded in 1572 by Juan de
Salcedo who patterned its design to that of Intramuros (Old
Manila).
Time-locked
Ilocos is a broad hardy country blessed with impressive wide
highways and stretches of narrow cobblestoned roads, antiquated
towns dominated by heavily-buttressed grand churches and
Antillan ancestral homes, and a brave people who, by sheer
industry, harnessed a formidable terrain into a source of
sustenance. A seemingly tempestuous sea rimmed with uneven rock
formations and ascetic mountains are the two scenic images that
first impress the visitor to Ilocos. Wedged between the wild
China Sea and the rugged Cordillera mountain range, the region
presents a visual feast that is at once dazzling in its
boldness. Divided into Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte, their
capitals - Vigan and Laoag City - are anchor tourist
destinations and part of the 7,000 times more islands that make
up the Philippine archipelago.
OLD WORLD CITY
Vigan, with its centuries-old edifices, is a breathing reminder
of what was once a royal city. One of the earliest Spanish
settlements in the country, Vigan was founded in 1572 by Juan de
Salcedo who patterned its design to that of Intramuros (Old
Manila). It became the seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia
and was called Ciudad Fernandina in honor of King Ferdinand.
Today, Vigan retains much of the patina of 18th century
Castillan architecture as seen in some 150 stone houses which
stand in the town’s Mestizo District, notably Mena Crisologo
Street. Many of these ancestral homes are still in good
condition and some have been turned into cozy inns, museums, and
souvenir shops.
Along with the homes are other vestiges of the town’s colonial
past:
The majestic St. Paul’s Cathedral was built by the Augustinian
friars along the distinct "Earthquake Baroque" style of the
Ilocos region and features Neo-Gothic and pseudo Romanesque
motifs. Standing on an elevation west of the cathedral is Plaza
Salcedo, the oldest monument in Northern Luzon. The Archbishop’s
Palace is a rich repository of religious artifacts from the
Ilocos region. Plaza Burgos was built in honor of Fr. Jose
Burgos, one of three Filipino priests who were garroted by the
Spaniards for espousing church reforms.
But it is not only edifices which are preserved in this town
inscribed in the World Heritage List. Viganos also remain
steadfast in their traditional crafts, notably pottery (burnay)
and handloom weaving (inabel). The horse-drawn calesa (rig) is
as much a presence in the streets as motor vehicles.
GATEWAY OF
THE NORTH
After Vigan, Juan de Salcedo pressed further north to Laoag
which even before the Spanish colonial times was already a
center of trade with the Japanese and Chinese. Laoag City,
today, is the major crossroads for international trade and
commerce in the Ilocos region. Though bustling with business,
the city has retained pretty much an unhurried, laid-back
lifestyle. Dominating the city landscape is the provincial
capitol which sits atop Ermita Hill, also popularly known as
Raquiza Garden. Another point of interest is the St. William’s
Cathedral, built by the Augustinians in 1612 along the Italian
Renaissance design. Its unique 2-story facade is held by four
pairs of coupled columns. A deeply recessed niche carries the
image of St. William. A hundred meters away from the church is
the Sinking Bell Tower which leans slightly to the north. It
sinks an inch a year to the ground. Like in Vigan, the calesa is
an integral part of the street landscape.
A HARDY BUT BEAUTIFUL LAND
Because of its difficult terrain and arid temperature, the
Ilocos was once described as a "God-forsaken land" and one was
well-advised to have the "patience of a spider" in order to
survive it. But Ilocanos, the hardy people that they are, not
only survived in this formidable land but were able to turn this
highland country into "God’s own paradise."
Ilocos has many churches of distinction which include two that
are inscribed in the World Heritage List. In Ilocos Sur is the
salmon-bricked Santa Maria Church. Built in 1769, it sits atop a
hill towering over the town proper. In Ilocos Norte is Paoay
Church. Built by the Augustinians in 1596, the church looks like
a cross between a Javanese temple and a European church. The
town of Bantay was the scene of fierce uprising led by Diego
Silang against the tobacco monopoly in 1762. The town’s savage
seascape has been immortalized in the films of Philippine Action
King Fernando Poe, Jr. The town church is an architectural gem
combining Baroque with Gothic motifs.
Currimao has
a burgeoning beach resort industry. Visitors to this coastal
town never fail to appreciate the sight of fishermen pulling in
their nets shortly before dusk while performing a song-and-dance
ritual for a bountiful harvest. Everybody is welcome to join in
and each participant is given a rightful share of the catch. The
town of Pagudpud offers a breathtaking landscape which includes
the enchanting Bantay Abot-abot, a natural sculpture carved by
the wind and sea, the white sand Saud beach and the majestic
Mabogabog Falls. Impressive living canvasses unravel as one
traverses the winding Patapat and Calvario roads.
Aside from its church, Paoay has a national park that envelops a
placid lake. Built along its edge is the Malaca๑ang of the
North, official residence of the late President Marcos in
northern Luzon. The town also has stretches of undulating sand
dunes, the setting of Mel Gibson’s "Mad Max" series and Tom
Cruise’s "Born on the Fourth of July." The Paoay Sports Complex
is the biggest in northern Luzon.
The pastoral town of Pasuquin has many fine beaches and is known
for its salt-making industry. Its hills and mountains abound
with wild game. Pasuquin Cave can be reached after some 45
minutes of traveling via a dirt road. A Mayor’s Permit is
necessary.
ISLAND
FLAVORS
The simplicity of Ilocano cookery is its own virtue.
Bitter-flavored dishes are part of the Ilocano cuisine.
Purposely laced into meat stews, fish grills and salads, the
bitter taste is as enjoyable as the other aspects of taste, such
as sweet, sour and salty. A popular dish is pinakbet, a
vegetable stew of bitter melon, squash, eggplant and okra with
crisp pork belly.
The town plaza and the marketplace are the best places to savor
local flavors. The hotels and resorts have their own dining
outlets and serve both native and international dishes. They can
prepare picnic meals upon request.
WARM
HOSPITALITY
Filipinos do not simply provide the guest with a place to rest
or park their luggage, they also share the best of what they
have. This warm, effusive brand of hospitality is what
distinguishes Philippine hotels from the others. In Ilocos, one
can easily find comfortable lodgings to suit one’s budget and
needs. |