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Turkmenistan’s harsh desert conditions and terrain mean that tourism
has been relatively undeveloped. Almost all the attractions lie around
the fringes of the desert and in ancient ruins such as Merv (now
Mary).
ASHGABAT :
The capital, on the southern rim of the
Kara-Kum desert, is a modern city. It replaced the one founded in
1881, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1948 that measured 10.5
on the Richter scale, killed 30 per cent of the population and razed
the city to the ground. Some of the more recent additions to the
capital include the Arch of Neutrality, a 75m-high (246ft)
monument with a revolving 12m (39ft) tall golden statue of President
Niyazov at its peak. At the base of the monument, there is a cafe and
lifts which can be taken to the viewing platforms. Nearby stands the
magnificent white marble Palace of Turkmenbashi, decorated with
gold-mirrored glass together with an Islamic-motif dome. There are a
number of museums, including a fine-art museum and the National
Museum of Turkmenistan. There is a small carpet museum attached to
the carpet factory on ul. Kuragli (formerly Piervomaiskaya), which
houses the world’s largest handwoven rug. The Tolkuchka bazaar
(Sunday market) in Ashgabat is the best place anywhere to buy Turkmen
carpets, mistakenly called Bukhara carpets in the West.
EXCURSIONS :
Close to Ashgabat are the remains of Old
Nisa, the capital of the Parthian kings who ruled from the 3rd
century BC to the 3rd century AD over an empire which included Iraq
and stretched as far as the Syrian Arab Republic. The national horse
stud, Turkmenbashi Stud Farm, is 10km (6 miles) from Ashgabat
and pure-bred Akhal-Teke horses can be viewed here. Trips are
best organised through a local travel agency. The modern town of
Anau, once the site of the destroyed 15th-century city, is 20km
(12 miles) east of Ashgabat.
The ruins of the famous mosque (revered for its striking mosaic tiles
and 8m-long (26ft) dragons) can still be seen. Chuli is a
popular mountain resort reached by taxi or private car through a
picturesque gorge. Climbing and hiking trips can be arranged, and
visitors can stay here. A pleasant day trip is to Bakharden,
90km (56 miles) west of Ashgabat. The underground mineral lake (known
in Turkmen as Kov Ata which means ‘father of lakes’) is fed by
hot springs and has a constant temperature of 37°C (97°F). Bathing is
permitted although there is an admission fee. Accommodation is not
available.
MARY :
Due east of Ashgabat, Mary is Turkmenistan’s second city. A large
industrial centre, Mary has little to recommend it other than its
interesting Regional Museum. However, it lies near the remains
of the city of Merv, which was once the second city of Islam
and known as the ‘Queen of Cities’ until Ghengis Khan’s son, Toloi,
reduced it to rubble and reportedly killed a million of its
inhabitants in 1221. The ruins of Merv and of the many that both
preceded it and succeeded it are spread over a large area. Most of
what remains are the brick-built mausolea of rulers and holy men -
including the impressive Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, completed
in 1140. Time, weather and invasions have taken their toll on the
mud-built cities of the Turkmen.
DASHGOUZ & KONYE-URGENCH :
Dashgouz is the largest city in the northern
region of Turkmenistan, on a direct train route, 500km (311 miles)
from Ashgabat, across the Kara-Kum desert. Although there are a few
places to stay and eat, the main sights lie outside the city. The
ruins of Konye-Urgench, an ancient fortress town with relics
dating back to the 14th century, are well worth visiting. Entry is
approximately US$2, payable in Manat. Things to see include the
Kutlug Timur Minaret, one of the tallest minarets in Asia at 67m
(220ft) high and built in the 1320s; the Sultan Tekesh,
Turabeg Khanym and Najm-ed-din Kubra Mausoleums.
TURKMENBASHI :
Situated to the west of Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi
was known as Krasnovodsk, but it was renamed in honour of President
Saparmurat Niyazov, who has been given the title ‘Turkmenbashi’ or
‘leader of all the Turkmen’. Situated on the shores of the Caspian
Sea, it is a Russian creation, built as a bridgehead for the campaign
to subdue Central Asia, and later to become the terminal for the
Trans-Caspian Railway. There are some panoramic views from the
mountainside surrounding the town and visitors can enjoy some good
beaches and swimming a little further out of town. The Museum of
Regional History and Natural History makes an interesting visit. |
Introduction
