HO CHI MINH CITY
(SAIGON)
Ho Chi Minh City is the heart and
soul of Vietnam. It's a bustling, dynamic and industrious centre, the
largest city in the country, the economic capital and the cultural
trendsetter. The streets, where much of the city's life takes place,
is a myriad of street markets, shops, pavement cafes, stands-on-wheels
and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks. The city churns,
ferments, bubbles and fumes. Yet within the teeming metropolis are the
timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include
the Giac Lam Pagoda, Reunification Palace, the
neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, the beautiful Museum of
Ho Chi Minh City, Ben Thanh market and the harrowing War
Remnants Museum.
Central Ho Chi Minh City is the place to be at night on weekends and
holidays. The streets are jam-packed with young locals cruising the
town on bicycles and motorbikes, out to see and be seen. The Municipal
Theatre area is the hub for young hipsters. Entertainment ranges from
disco, to bars such as No 5 Ly Tu Trong and the Hard Rock Cafe, where
Western music is played, or experiencing traditional Vietnamese music
at the Conservatory of Music. Budget travellers tend to congregate
around the Pham Ngu Lao area at the western end of District 1. Cholon
has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are rare here.
Travellers with a little more cash prefer the more upmarket hotels
concentrated around D Dong Khoi at the eastern side of District 1.
Central Saigon is the best place to look for fine Vietnamese and
Western food, while Cholon's speciality is Chinese food.
DALAT
The city of Dalat is the jewel of
the southern Central Highlands region. The cool climate and park-like
environment (often with Vietnamese style kitsch), makes it one of the
most delightful cities in Vietnam. Dalat is also a good base for trips
into the surrounding highlands, which remain tranquil. In Dalat, make
sure you visit the Hang Nga Guesthouse & Art Gallery, nicknamed
the Crazy House by locals. It's a counter-cultural gem created by
artist and architect Mrs Dang Viet Nga (known as Hang Nga). Emperor
Bao Dai's Summer Palace is stuffed with interesting art and
artefacts, and is well worth a look. It's also interesting to stroll
around the old French Quarter, which is little changed since
the French departed. The Valley of Love, 5km (3mi) north of the
city centre, is a bizarre place with a carnival-style atmosphere where
you can hire a paddle boat on the lake, or a horse from one of the
Dalat Cowboys (no relation to the Dallas Cowboys), who are, indeed,
dressed as cowboys.
There are some pleasant walks or rides (on horseback or bicycle) in
the countryside around the city, but be aware that areas signposted
with a C-sign are off-limits to foreigners. Further out, you can visit
the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village
and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken).
Dalat is famous for its cafes and is a paradise for people who love
fresh vegetables. It's extremely popular with domestic tourists and
honeymooners, so there's a wide range of accommodation options. You
can fly to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City, but the airport is 30km (19mi)
from town; express buses also link the two cities.
NHA TRANG
Although it has the potential to
develop into a flashy resort such as Thailand's Pattaya Beach, Nha
Trang is still a good place to go for sun and partying. But see it
while it lasts. With very clear turquoise waters (except for the wet
season), snorkelling, diving and fishing are prime activities, and
just lazing on the town beach is an experience in itself. You'll be
offered everything from lunch to a manicure. When you tire of the
beach, there are some interesting sites nearby, such as the Long
Son Pagoda, and 2km (1.2mi) to the north of town are the Cham
towers of Po Nagar, built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a
site that had been used for Hindu worship as early as the 2nd century.
Nha Trang's dry season runs from June to September, different from Ho
Chi Minh City's. To cater for the growing influx of visitors, many new
hotels have been built in town. Nha Trang is a major fishing port, so
excellent seafood is available. The exotic dragon fruit (thanh long)
grows only in the Nha Trang area. It's about the size and shape of a
small pineapple, but tastes something like a kiwifruit. The fruit is
in season from May to September, when you can find it served as a
drink. Express and regular buses link Nha Trang with Ho Chi Minh City;
express buses take about 12 hours. Express trains run to both Ho Chi
Minh City and Hanoi, and there are daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City
and Hanoi.
HUE
Traditionally, Hué has been one of
Vietnam's main cultural, religious and education centres. Its Thien
Mu Pagoda is one of the most famous structures in Vietnam. The
remains of the huge, moated Citadel (Kinh Thanh), constructed
by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights,
such as the Ngo Mon Gate, Nine Holy Cannons, Thai Hoa (the Palace of
Supreme Harmony), Nine Dynastic Urns and the Halls of the Mandarins.
Sadly, the intriguing Forbidden Purple City was largely destroyed
during the Vietnam War. About 15km (9mi) south of Hué are the splendid
Royal Tombs, of the Nguyen emperors. Hué has many other places
of religious and dynastic importance, and some good museums.
You can do sampan trips up the Perfume River, which include
visits to some of Hué's main attractions. If you want to get out of
the city for a swim, head 13km (8mi) northeast to Thuan An Beach,
where there's a lagoon and a hotel. It can be reached by sampan or
bus. There's a range of accommodation in Hué to suit most budgets, and
the city is famed for its fine restaurants. Hué has a long tradition
of vegetarian food, which is prepared at pagodas for the monks. Stalls
in the markets serve vegetarian food on the 1st and the 15th days of
the lunar month, and there are also several restaurants serving it all
the time. Hué is about 700km (430mi) from Hanoi and 1100km (680mi)
from Ho Chi Minh City. The Reunification Express train running between
those cities stops here, and there are frequent flights and buses to
both cities.
HALONG BAY
Magnificent Halong Bay, with its 3000
islands rising from the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin,
is one of Vietnam's natural marvels. The tiny islands are dotted with
innumerable beaches and grottoes created by the wind and waves. The
most impressive of the grottoes is the Hang Dau Go, a huge cave
of three chambers, while the Thien Cung Caves are also very
impressive. The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon descended into
the sea', and refers to a legend about a dragon who created the bay
and islands with its flailing tail. There's even a modern legendary
creature, the Tarasque, said to haunt the area.
Taking a tour of the bay is the main activity here; most book a tour
at a cafe or hotel in Hanoi. If you want to arrange things
independently, be ready for lots of hard sell from touts in Halong Bay
City. To see a lot, choose a fast boat. If you want a romantic
experience but with the risk of getting hardly anywhere, look for one
of the old junks. You have to charter the whole boat, but there are
usually enough travellers around to make up a party and keep costs
down. The main town in the region is Halong City, which is in two
halves, bisected by a bay. Bai Chay (the western part) is the more
scenic and has the most hotels, restaurants and persistent touts. Hon
Gai (the eastern part) is connected to Haiphong by a ferry. Masochists
might try seeing the bay on a day-trip from Hanoi. Another option is
to travel to Cat Ba Island (see Off the Beaten Track), where
you can arrange a tour of the bay with less hassles.
HANOI
Hanoi, capital of the Socialist
Republic of Vietnam, has shaken off its unwelcoming attitude to
travellers and has become one of the most beguiling cities in Asia. It
is slow-paced and pleasant, while its lovely landscape of lakes,
shaded boulevards and verdant public parks is home to beautiful and
diverse architectural treasures, colonial French homes and astounding
modern skyscrapers. Its bustling markets, thriving nightlife and
excellent food are attracting visitors of every stripe to this ancient
city. Birthplace to so much of Vietnam's traditional culture, Hanoi,
more than any other city in Vietnam, is a unique fusion of old and
new. It personifies the spirit of historic Vietnam in the temples,
monuments and pockets of ancient culture along the narrow streets of
the Old Quarter, yet perfectly reflects the rapid changes
sweeping the country as Hanoian yuppies sip cappucinos in roadside
cafes and compare cell phones. The attractive centre of Hanoi is built
around Hoan Kiem Lake. Sights to check out include One
Pillar Pagoda and Van Mieu (Temple of Literature).
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